Toya Bungkah contains about 15 losmen, most lining the road and surrounded by neatly landscaped gardens. Look around before you settle on one. Except for the Art Center, all offer quite plain rooms for Rp8000 s, Rp10,000 or Rp12,000 d, which includes toilet, shower, and front veranda. Unlike other budget accommodations on Bali, breakfast is sometimes not included in the price; inquire first. Most losmen are located in the west end of the village. If the room doesn’t offer a view of the lake, you could probably bargain it down to Rp6000 s, Rp8000 d. Whatever the price, insist upon clean bed linen and a towel or threaten to move to another losmen. Try to avoid places close to the road, as hikers set out at 0400 accompanied by a chorus of dogs; sputtering motorcycles and bemo start up in earnest at around 0500.

Darma Putra Homestay & Restaurant has 10 rooms and two bungalows with comfortable beds, bathroom, and shower for Rp7500 s, Rp12,000 d; bungalows are Rp20,000 d breakfast included. The owner, I Ketut Narsa, provides good information on trekking and guides. Behind Marini’s Restaurant are three nice bungalows run by I Nyoman Mertha; Rp12,000 s, Rp20,000 d (includes breakfast) with nice views and clean tile floors. Fairly quiet, near restaurants. The very reasonable Awangga is just past the Art Center and about 75 meters from the Toya Bungkah-Songan road. Small rooms without showers overlook the lower baths of the hot springs and cost Rp8000 s, Rp10,000 d, Rp15,000 s and Rp25,000 d with hot water. Four bungalows with hot showers run Rp25,000 d. Quiet, enclosed courtyard. Jero Wijaya provides great information as well as maps of the crater area.

Another good place is Arlina’s, tel. (0362) 51165, past the Art Center on the bend of the road, charging Rp10,000-15,000 for economy rooms with one bed, Rp30,000 for rooms with two beds (hot water, separate reading lights). Also included: excellent breakfast, small verandas, phantasmagoric grotto-like mandi, shower, and the clearest and most unobstructed views of the lake. Join the card-playing guides in front of the losmen and banter with them over their “fee” for taking you up Gunung Batur. Arlina’s also rents bicycles, motorbikes, and cars with drivers. Tirta Yatra, right on the lake, wants Rp8000 s or Rp12,000 d for very basic rooms-virtual cells separated by bamboo mats. Outhouse in the back. This is like camping, so bring your own soap, drinking water, and sleeping bag. Rooms have a squat toilet, no shower, oil lamp lighting. A fine cheap restaurant overlooks the lake. Despite the noise from children, roosters, dogs, and the nearby road, Nyoman Pangus Homestay & Warung opposite Arlina’s is often full because it’s the best known. Located right in the village center, Nyoman asks Rp10,000, Rp12,000, and Rp15,000 s or d for clean rooms (no breakfast) in the back with bath, shower, and laundry facilities.

More expensive rooms have hot water. A friendly, gentle man eager to please; an okay place to stay. Behind Nyoman Pangus Homestay is Mawa Bungalows. The service-oriented owner charges Rp6000 s and Rp8000 d for rooms in front, Rp10,000 s and Rp15,000 d for rooms in back. Laundry service. Asri Inn, tel. (0362) 753645, fax (0361) 754784 in Denpasar, charges Rp15,000 d with mandi. Separate bungalow for Rp20,000 d. Nice location, though perhaps too central. Amertha’s Accommodations is right on the lake, overlooking the hot springs. Bungalows for Rp20,000 and Rp25,000 s or d face the lake with private garden bath, walls of volcanic rock, and open verandas. Other, smaller rooms go for Rp12,000 and Rp15,000 s or d. All four classes of rooms have private mandi. Since it’s very close to the hot springs, hot water is pumped up for showers. Wide parking lot and good restaurant.

More secluded than Toya Bungkah’s other losmen, the Art Center has more expensive rooms, each with mandi, European toilet. Standard rooms with hot water cost Rp15,000 s, Rp18,500 d. The suites in front go for Rp18,000 s, Rp26,000 d-very nice, they look out over landscaped gardens, near the lake, with attached mandi with bathtub and shower. Family bungalows (capacity four or five) are Rp50,000. The Art Center is often booked by groups. Performances take place when hotel guests charter a dance troupe. The restaurant services American breakfast for Rp7000; lunch Rp8000, dinner Rp10,000. The other high-priced hotel, newly built, is the Puri Bening Hayato Hotelright beside the lake. Huge restaurant which serves tour group-type food.