Trunyan’s old temple, Pura Pancering Jagat (“Temple of the Navel of the World”), stands under a massive banyan tree. Unusual architecture abounds in this austere pura-a fossilized relic of aboriginal Balinese society. The Bali Aga never came fully under Javano-Balinese domination, and the Polynesian features found in their temples are not seen elsewhere on Bali. One must cross over a symbolic little bridge (titi gonggang) before entering. Hidden away in a seven-tiered tower inside is Bali’s largest statue, the megalithic-style Ratu Gede Pancering Jagat, the powerful patron guardian of the village. Known locally as Da Tonta, this unique 3.5-meter-high stone and clay statue, adorned with ornaments, is considered very ancient, and many magic powers are attributed to it. Every three years virgin boys ceremoniously clean and paint the surface of the colossus with a mixture of water, chalk, and honey. You won’t be able to see this august statue, as it’s jealously guarded by the villagers. Only they, and only during rituals, may gaze it.