Getting Away

Hop on a bemo up to Penelokan (Rp1000); they leave from 0400 to 1300. From Penelokan regular buses leave for Singaraja and Denpasar. Public transport is always more frequent in the morning. After 1300, the bemo are more infrequent; you may have to charter (Rp6000 and up) or accept an outrageous price. Have your losmen or hotel owner make return transportation arrangements for you (bring this up before you take a room). Or hitch a ride with a construction truck for around Rp2000 to Penelokan. With a five-person minimum, you can arrange 1030 and 1200 shuttle service with Jero Wijaya Tourist Service to Ubud, Rp8000; Kuta, Rp17,500; Lovina, Rp12,500; Candidasa, Rp12,500. Some of the losmen also provide shuttle services. Ask Nyoman Mawa at Under the Volcano, who can also arrange treks. The short trek starts at 0400, returns at 0800, and costs Rp30,000; a lengthier journey commences at 0400, returns at 1200, and runs Rp60,000. Fees include breakfast. A tour of the volcano area costs Rp80,000 and requires 10 hours; at the end a car waits for you in Toya Mampeh to return you to Toya Bungkah.

At Toya Bungkah’s tiny harbor and concrete pier, boatmen ask Rp10,000 up front for a rowboat across the lake to Trunyan’s Bali Aga cemetery; you row. You’ll die if you row by yourself, then they’ll go through your pockets for the Rp5000 to see the cemetery. Motorized boats to the boneyard cost Rp40,000 for up to seven people. Not worth it.