Getting Away

For the lake trip, buy your tickets at the fixed-price ticket office in Kedisan, near where the motorized boat leave. There are 82 boats in all. Standard price is Rp35,000 (maximum seven people) for a two-hour tour of Trunyan, the hot springs and back to Kedisan. It’s slightly cheaper if you just go to Trunyan and back (20-minute passage each way). This ferry is only 500 meters from the Segara Homestay. If you like crowds, Sunday is the best day. Beware of scalpers and independents who try to con you into paying several times the official price. Lying through their teeth, they’ll tell you anything-that they’re cheaper, that the government boats no longer operate, and so forth. They’re also inclined to renegotiating the price halfway across the lake or once they have you captive in Trunyan.

A self-propelled dugout canoe is probably not a viable alternative, even though it’s much cheaper at Rp10,000, unless you’re prepared to paddle a hell of a long way across water that could get very rough should the wind come up. Don’t try to paddle across unless you’re very strong and race kayaks for a living. No matter what kind of boat you take or no matter when you leave, take jeans and a jumper or freeze your ass off.

Yet another alternative involves no boat across to Trunyan-walk it. Take a bemo (Rp500) or ride your motorbike from Penelokan to Buahan; from there it’s about a one-hour (seven-km) hike along the well-maintained lakeshore path to Trunyan. A longer hike runs from Kedisan north to Toya Mempeh, looping around southeast to Songan, then back to Kedisan via Toya Bungkah.